San Sebastián – or “Donostia” to locals – is famed for its pintxos: those beautiful, bite-sized snacks perched on bread and skewered with a toothpick. And while hopping from one pintxos bar to the next in the cobbled streets of San Sebastián’s Old Town is an essential rite of passage, the Basque Country’s food scene goes far deeper than the bar counter.
Beyond the glossy anchovies and jamón ibérico, there’s a whole world of traditional dishes, fresh seafood, and slow-cooked soul food waiting to be explored. Here’s how to adventure beyond pintxos in San Sebastián, and get to the heart of Basque cuisine.
1. Sidrerías and the Ritual of Cider Season
Just outside the city, in the countryside of Astigarraga, Basque cider houses (sidrerías) are a must for anyone craving a hearty, communal experience. Traditionally open during txotx season (January to April), these rustic halls serve cider straight from the barrel and pair it with a set menu that includes:
- Txuleton: A massive, bone-in, grass-fed beef ribeye, grilled rare and sliced at the table.
- Tortilla de Bacalao: A fluffy omelette made with salt cod and onions.
- Idiazabal cheese, walnuts, and quince paste for dessert.
Don’t be shy—when you hear the call of “Txotx!”, grab your glass and line up at the barrel to catch your pour mid-air like a pro.
2. Basque Seafood
Located on the Bay of Biscay, San Sebastián is a seafood lover’s dream. For the full experience, head to a traditional marisquería (seafood restaurant), where the ocean’s bounty is treated with the appropriate reverence.
What to order:
- Kokotxas al pil-pil: The gelatin-rich throat of the hake is cooked slowly with olive oil, garlic, and chili to form a delicious emulsion.
- Chipirones en su tinta: Baby squid braised in their own ink, served with rice or crusty bread to soak up the rich black sauce.
- Grilled turbot (rodaballo): Often served whole and simply dressed with sea salt and olive oil, this flatfish is revered for its flavour.
3. Traditional Basque Stews and Slow-Cooked Fare
The Basques love their stews, and if you venture into more rural or family-run restaurants (caseríos or asadores), you’ll find dishes that warm the soul and connect directly to the land.
Don’t miss:
- Alubias de Tolosa: Rich, dark beans cooked with morcilla (blood sausage), cabbage, and chorizo. Served with pickled peppers and crusty bread, it’s the very definition of comfort food.
- Marmitako: A traditional fisherman’s stew made with tuna, potatoes, onions, peppers, and paprika. Hearty, rustic, and full of sea-salt soul.
4. Basque Desserts Worth Seeking Out
After all the savoury indulgence, Basque desserts offer a perfect coup de grâce.
- Pantxineta: A puff pastry filled with creamy custard and topped with toasted almonds. Flaky, sweet, and deeply satisfying.
- Burnt Basque Cheesecake (Tarta de Queso): Famously invented at La Viña in the Old Town, this crustless cheesecake has a caramelized top and a creamy, almost molten centre. It’s as simple as it is addictive.
5. Dining with the Locals: Basque Gastronomic Societies
If you’re lucky enough to get invited to a txoko – a private Basque gastronomic society – you’ll get to see food in its purest form: friends gathered to cook, eat, and preserve culinary traditions. While these societies are typically closed to outsiders, some culinary experiences and food tours offer a rare chance to visit and dine like a local.
San Sebastián’s pintxos scene is legendary for good reason, but the city – and the Basque Country in general – offers much more than small bites. It’s a place where slow food still thrives, where traditions are alive in every simmering stew pot and every sizzling grill. To truly understand Basque cuisine, you’ve got to go beyond the pintxo and into the heart of a culture where food isn’t just a meal; it’s a way of life.
So next time you’re in Donostia, venture off the pintxos trail. You might just find your favorite dish in a hidden sidrería or a quiet neighborhood asador.
