Meaning “intermission” or “interval”, l’Entracte conjures up images of busy, bustling, quick meals between two main acts. However that is not exactly the atmosphere that we found in this little bistrot.
Traditionally Parisian, not too flash, and quite laid back was instead what we encountered. The food was reasonable and the portions quite generous so we only managed two courses each. And this was testing our limits as it was!
We ordered the salmon gravlax (€11) and beef carpaccio (€10) to start, a glass of chardonnay to accompany the fish (€6.50), and a glass of house red (€4.50) for the carpaccio. Both were served swiftly; my companion’s carpaccio was well garnished and he gave it the veritable thumbs up.
The gravlax was served with a black radish puree, which though I initially disliked it, the taste actually grew on me by the end, and added a pleasant earthy flavour to the salmon.
For mains we stayed with fish for myself and beef for my friend; I ordered the squid risotto (€19) and he had the steak and chips (€16) with a second glass each. My risotto was the perfect amount of indulgence, and the wild rice made it a little nutty, saving it from becoming a mushy nothingness. My only reservation was that the squid could have been cooked better. The steak was spot on, as were the house frites.
It wasn’t off the charts gourmet, but it was pretty decent. And the waiter on hand was very friendly which is sometimes considered a rarity in Paris. Thus, I would recommend if you happen to be in the area, but would be wary of planning a dedicated trip.
Address: 21 Rue Malte Brun, 75020 Paris
Metro: M3, Gambetta
Phone: 01 42 52 25 59
Open: Monday to Saturday, 12:00 to 15:00