It\u2019s easy to miss down an unprepossessing street off the \u201cwrong part\u201d of Oxford Street \u2013 that\u2019s the bit towards Tottenham Court Road tube but still just a walk from London\u2019s premier shopping.<\/p>\n
For despite its low key exterior, Latium \u2013 at 24 Berners Street W1 \u2013 is one of London\u2019s most exciting restaurants. It\u2019s Italian but about as far removed from most people\u2019s idea of an Italian restaurant with oversized pepper grinders as London is from Sydney.<\/p>\n
I first discovered it just before Christmas, looking for a lunchtime treat at somewhere new. My first choice \u2013 which I\u2019ve totally forgotten \u2013 was booked solid. Then I found Latium.<\/p>\n
And yes, we walked straight past it the first time. But once through the door, the service was attentive without being over-powering. And the food is something from seventh heaven.<\/p>\n
Latium works on fixed price menus. The lunchtime and early evening (for pre-theatre) menu costs \u00a316.50 a head for two courses or \u00a322.50 for three. And then there\u2019s the \u00a333 anytime menu. That\u2019s for three courses \u2013 why would anyone want to stint themselves? Latium is owned by Chef-Patron Maurizio Morelli, along with London restaurateur, Claudio Pulze.<\/p>\n
The menu covers Italy, but with a particular emphasis on the cuisine of Lazio (the area around Rome). Morelli sources ingredients from small, artisan producers, many specially imported from his hometown of Latina.<\/p>\n
On my first visit we opted for the \u00a333 deal. The menu changes regularly according to seasonal availability and the mouthwatering duck dish and chicken we each had as our main was no longer there on our second visit, a group of six.<\/p>\n
One constant \u2013 most original item \u2013 is the \u201cRavioli\u201d menu. Yes, you can enjoy ravioli for starters, main and pudding \u2013 obviously you for one or two courses as well. Ravioli desserts include a chocolate dish, with brown pasta and an applle and mint confection which is green.<\/p>\n
On my second visit, I chose Tagliatelle con Funghi di Bosco e Castagne (Tagliatelle with wild mushrooms and chestnuts) followed by Guancia di Manzo Brasato al Vino Rosso, Pure di Patate allo Zafferano, Cipolline Glassate (Beef cheek braised in red wine, saffron mash potato, glazed baby onions). It was delicious. The others mostly opted for Pheasant wrapped in Parma Ham \u2013 way beyond wonderful. And I finished with a mint and apple ravioli.<\/p>\n
Staff bring bread and small dishes as soon as you sit down \u2013 but if you really want extra vegetables \u201cContorni\u201d cost \u00a33.50 a time.<\/p>\n
The wine list is dominated by regional Italians \u2013 on my second visit we exhausted the cellar of Catarrato, a Sicilian white and a snip at \u00a325.50 a bottle. Wines start at a very reasonable \u00a316 with a massive choice under \u00a340.<\/p>\n
With half a bottle of wine a person, coffee and service, expect to pay around \u00a355 per head for the main menu. It\u2019s a bargain. And it\u2019s a foodie paradise that\u2019s still below the radar.<\/p>\n
VERDICT Scrumptious!<\/p>\n